On fusion food through the medium of frittata

19 10 2009

Now you see fusion food… it’s enough to strike fear into even the most steely-hearted of chefs. Mention the F word, and you can see their brows bead with cold sweat and their eyes dart to scope out the nearest exit. “Lemon grass in your beef rogan josh inspired cottage pie? Well that sounds different, excusemeIvejustseensomeoneIhavetotalktomustbegoingnowbye”. It turns out, with a little rational thought, the fusion food is all around us, it’s just a question of degrees of separation: like the game six degrees of Kevin Bacon, but this is more like six degrees of Sweetcure Bacon. Fish and Chips, that quintessential of British Staples couldn’t have existed prior to 1536 when the humble spud was introduced thanks to the Spanish. In fact, potatoes are relative newcomers to many parts of the world. Chicken Tikka Massala and Baltis – fusion food. Indian spices and techniques adapted to the European palate. Why the wordy introduction? It’s a form of apology for what I’m about to tell you. I mixed Italian and English food tonight. Worse than that, I mixed Asian and European. And it turned out OK! In fact, it turned out to be rather interesting and pretty nice!

It all started because I had leeks to use up. I had bought them in a frenzy at the veg market the Saturday before last and they were prodigious in their stature! Having been left in the vegetable rack for a week and a bit however, it was time to make use of them. Some sort of frittata or tortilla beckoned – most of the recipes I found had potato in them and whilst leek and potato soup is a nonpareille, and potato is clearly a staple in the frittata/tortilla world, it just wasn’t doing it for me. I had my pith helmet on and my adventurer’s backpack and I was going to climb mount Cookery.

I came across this recipe from Rachel Ray. This could be a goer. Most of the ingredients were storecupboard staples, so minimal outlay, and I can have it cold for lunch tomorrow too (and the next day… and the next… til I never want to see another leek again mostly likely). I had Grana Padano in the fridge, but I wanted to break out – push the envelope – stretch the boundaries – make real cooks and chefs break out into a cold sweat. Hands up! I confess! I used Stilton in the polenta crust. And a touch of chopped sage – just a hint mind you as I have been seduced by Old Mother Sage once too often in the past to give in and put too many of the glorious, finely-haired leaves into anything. Sage is at least a possible, being a native of the part of the world that gives us the word Polenta. Stilton not. And it worked. According to my taste, that is… but it worked.

Now, you’ll excuse the crappy photography please – I’m only just dragging myself into the digital age being a Mediaevalist by training, and a Marketer largely by accident and I’ve only got an old cameraphone to take pictures with.

Strengths: Tasty polenta crust – polenta is notoriously tasteless, hence the addition of industrial quantities of black pepper and cheese in most recipes.

Weaknesses: The Stilton has a different consistency to Parmesan that I failed to take into account sufficiently. The polenta ‘crust’ was only just done and could have stood being a little more firm. I think it will be fine for lunch tomorrow having spent the night in the fridge. Adjust the polenta up, or the stock down, for the next run. I wanted to use half stock and half wine, but I didn’t have any in that I was willing to sacrifice to the altar of experimentation. And I think that might have been overkill. If there’s two things I’m guilty of being, it’s an inveterate tinkerer-with-things and over-adder of ingredients. Also the polenta needs to cool a little before trying to shape it into a crust otherwise it just gets sloppy; this meant that some parts of the crust were thicker than others, while not a problem for me, might be a bit unsatisfactory if I was cooking it for people.

Learnings: Ignore the injunction to put little bits of cold butter in with your eggs. I ended up with buttery pools on top of the thing. Cook the leeks in the butter instead of the EVOO (!) and add the juices with them when you pour into the poleta crust. I under-seasoned the leeks too, thinking that the Stilton would be sufficiently salt to carry the leeks. I was trying to make the Stilton work too hard on that score.

Serve with: This was my second fusion moment of the meal I had nashi pears in the fridge, and some chicory. Ignoring the recipe’s suggestion of a tomato and rocket salad, I went for a pear, chicory and walnut salad, dressed with walnut oil and a little white wine vinegar. Pears and chicory is fairly standard, the nashi pear added a crispness and sweetness that worked well with the chicory. Nuts added texture, and the walnut oil gave a nice backnote of walnutty warmth.

Fusion food: not all bad…. pass me the lemongrass anyone?

And if you’re at all inspired to have a go at this travesty – you can find the recipe HERE which also contains a link to the original, courtesy of Ms Rachel Ray





Recipule for mini-meatloaves

11 10 2009

This is mostly in American as it’s adapted from an American site http://www.myrecipes.com (http://find.myrecipes.com/recipes/recipefinder.dyn?action=displayRecipe&recipe_id=1160601).

Servings

From this mixture I made 12 mini loaves, and had enough left to freeze a batch of the mixture to make another six. So 18 in total – which is about enough for nine people, or six hungry lumberjacks.

Ingrediments

  • glug olive oil (isn’t that scientific!)
  • 1 cup onion (I want to use leeks or spring onions next time… or a mixture)
  • 1/2 cup carrot (parsnip would add too much sweetness I think, swede would give it an earthiness)
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano (or what you have, herbes de provence would be nice, thyme would be good, but use only half a teaspoon as dried thyme is potent)
  • 3 cloves of garlic (or more, or less to taste – I happened to have three to use up)
  • 2 x 1/2 cups of Tommy K
  • 1 1/2 pounds finest lean steak mince
  • Enough matzoh crackers to make one cup of cracker crumb (or cream crackers, I just happened to have matzoh – next time I have some salt and cracked black pepper crackers that I think might be rather nice – or the new Jacobs chilli crackers might add a bit of a punch – be relaxed about this step!)
  • 2 tablespoons poupon wholegrain mustard – use an English or French mustard for this – American ‘mustard’ would push it over the edge of being too sweet with the ketchup you’ll be using later.
  • 1 teaspoon mushroom ketchup (I’m going to try anchovy ketchup next time though out of a spirit of adventure)
  • oodles (another technical term) of Maldon salt and black pepper to season
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2-3 tablespoons of fresh flat leaf parsley chopped finely
  • bit of olive oil on some kitchen roll for greasing

Method

Preheat oven to 180.

First blitz the crackers til you’ve got cracker dust – about 15-25 crackers should yield enough. Set aside.

Grease an 18-hole muffin tin with a little olive oil on some kitchen paper and set aside.

Blitz the onion, carrot and garlic in the food processor until finely chopped and well mixed. Then heat the olive oil in a pan and sauté with the dried herbs and loads of salt and pepper for a couple of minutes, remove from heat and leave to cool somewhat.

Meanwhile throw one of the half cups of Tommy K you’ve got, and the rest of the ingredients into a large bowl and mix well. Season to within an inch of its life. Add in the onion, garlic, carrot and oregano mix once it’s cool enough not to scramble your eggs and mix again.

Take your mix and put in the 18-hole muffin tin once all the holes are filled – take the other 1/2 cup of TK and spread a little on each of the mini loaves (you might need a bit more than 1/2 cup – but do it to taste).

Bake at 180° for 25-30 minutes or until your meat thermometer registers 71°. Leave to stand for a couple of minutes before serving to allow the loaves to firm up slightly.

To serve: A head of braised chicory & potato wedges, or boiled potatoes and sautéed leeks. Crisp white wine I think, as although it’s beef, the TK can sweeten things up a little (which is why plenty of pepper is essential) and so something achingly dry and cold is more than welcome. If you’re looking for that all-American touch.. have a few bottles of Bud with it.